Salmon + Cream Pasta w Arugula

This dish was a revelation. I first had it in Zermatt, perched mountainside with the Matterhorn in full view—the kind of setting that makes anything taste great. I’d never been to Zermatt before, but I was all too familiar with the American ski experience: $22 chicken tenders and $8 Evian. This was nothing like that. The restaurants, tucked into the edges of glaciers and overlooking some of the most beautiful mountains I’d ever seen, felt impossibly remote yet impressively refined. Of course, the food was going to taste good.

I kept noticing this pasta at nearly every table around me, the scent alone enough to stop me in my tracks. With a pastis in hand and crisp mountain air on my face, I dug into a creamy, delicate handmade pasta before heading back out for another two hours of skiing—maybe not the smartest pairing, but absolutely worth it.

Back in Brooklyn, this dish lingered in my mind, and so I remade it. I’d never been much for cream-based pastas, but I was feeling hopeful. This dish is rich and deeply flavorful, built around the often-overlooked salmon head. The cheeks, collars, and hidden bits of meat bring incredible texture and depth, balanced by a silky cream sauce and the peppery bite of arugula.

Give this one a try!

Ingredients

• 1 salmon head

• 1 cup heavy cream

• 1 tbsp olive oil

• 2 tbsp butter

• 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced

• 1 cup arugula

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving (optional)

• 16 oz Girelle Pasta

Instructions

1. Prepare the Salmon Head
   Using kitchen shears, remove the gills from the salmon head and discard. Rinse the head thoroughly under cold water and pat dry. Drizzle with olive oil, season generously with salt, and roast at 350°F for 10 minutes, or until cooked through. Once cooled, pick off all the meat—the cheeks, collars, and any tender bits—then set aside.

2. Make the Sauce
   In a medium pot, heat butter and olive oil over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook gently for 3–5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent. Season with salt and black pepper.

3. Cook the Pasta
   Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta according to package instructions until just shy of al dente (reserve about 1 cup of pasta water).

4. Finish the Sauce
   Reduce the heat to medium-low and pour the cream into the pot with the onions. Let it simmer and reduce slightly, stirring occasionally, until it’s thickened a bit. Add a splash of the reserved pasta water, followed by the salmon. Cook for a minute allowing the flavors to meld.

5. Combine & Serve
   Add the cooked pasta to the pot, tossing gently to coat in the sauce. If needed, add more pasta water to achieve a silky, emulsified texture. Taste and adjust seasoning.

6. Plate & Garnish
   Divide the pasta among bowls and top with fresh arugula, a shaving of Parm (if you’re not averse to cheese and fish, i’m not), and a final crack of black pepper.

Notes

• If you can’t find a salmon head, this recipe works well with salmon collars or fillets.

• The sauce should cling lightly to the pasta—avoid over-reducing to keep it from becoming too thick.

• Arugula adds a fresh, peppery contrast, but you can substitute with watercress or finely chopped parsley.